Fishing
and crofting have always been the mainstays of Shetland life,
though much has changed since the not so distant past when the
sea was the highway and the engine unknown. The old way of life
continued almost unchanged until World War II announced itself
with the first bomb to be dropped on British soil landing in
Sullom. The sole casualty was a rabbit, allegedly inspiring the
famous wartime song "Run Rabbit Run". Many fine examples of
times past can be seen in Northmavine.
Easily
accessible are the shore front at Hillswick where the man made
beach was used for drying fish. Here The Booth, a former
Hanseatic trading post, has stayed in business for more than 300
years. Since the turn of this century it has been overlooked by
the large, wooden pavilion from Norway, displayed at Glasgow's
Great Exhibition, in 1899, and now a hotel.
Further afield on Stenness beach stand the
ruins of fishing lodges, reminding us of the "far haaf" open sea
fishing which flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. Men
would set out to sea for days on end in open rowing boats called
"sixareens" not returning until they were laden with fish.
Fethaland was once Shetland's busiest haaf fishing station.
Sixty sixareens were based here and the ruins of twenty lodges
still stand, retaining the atmosphere of the time. Close by, a
circular mound is believed to be the remains of a 4000 year old
homestead.
The
Vikings left their mark on a nearby soapstone cliff where it is
possible to distinguish the shapes of urns and bowls where they
were carved from the cliff face. Fethaland is some distance to
walk, as are the green pastures of Uyea where a crofting
community thrived until early this century. The well-preserved
buildings are still used by crofters today.
Crofting
continues throughout the parish. Some crofts invite visitors to
come and look around on open days during the summer (see local
press for details).
The
fishing industry lives on at Collafirth pier, built it 1988 on
the site of an old Norwegian whaling station and now home to one
of Britain's largest fishing boats. Smaller inshore boats work
from Hamnavoe and Hillswick as well as Collafirth. The picture
of the modern Shetland economy is completed with salmon farms in
several of Northmavine's voes, and the best view of Europe's
largest oil terminal, at Sullom Voe, from Ollaberry.
All
aspects of life in Northmavine over the years are well
illustrated at Tangwick Haa Museum. The Haa was built in the
late 17th Century for the Cheyne family, lairds of the Tangwick
Estate and elsewhere in Shetland.
The
museum has many fascinating artefacts and photographs. Part of
the display has a new theme every year.
JOHNNIE NOTIONS
Northmavine has produced many great characters. One who stands
out is John Williamson of Hamnavoe, known as Johnnie Notions for
his inventive mind.
Though
uneducated, he designed his own inoculation against smallpox,
saving thousands of local people from this 18th Century scourge
of Shetland without losing a single patient.
When walking in Northmavine please observe the country code by
keeping dogs on leads and closing all gates that you have
opened. Most land is freely accessible, but it is wise to check
locally.